Category Archives: Malmö

Delicious lunch at “Smith I” at Hansacompagniet in Malmö

In the center of downtown Malmö, there is a shopping center called “Hansacompagniet,” or the Hansa Company. It’s got a fairly standard array of shops and restaurants with some upscale options mixed in among the rest, plus the all-important Systembolaget (hello, liquor store!).

One thing I discovered, however, when shopping with Simon and his mom last Saturday (and taking in the demonstrations against the Sweden Democrats), is that there is a really nice lunch and fika spot tucked in the glass pedestrian bridge that links the shopping mall to the parking structure. It’s called “Smith I,” and while it’s not cheap, it’s not that much more expensive than a fika at Espresso House or regular lunch at a restaurant. Plus, you get to sit in the glass bridge overlooking the street… pretty cool.

Simon had a chicken Caesar salad that he thought was really good, and I had this amazing cured salmon salad with sweet teriyaki dressing, pickled onions, pickled ginger, shaved carrots, and crisp romaine lettuce. MMM! I’m not normally a big teriyaki fan, but the sweet and sour and salty and crispy combination was amazing.

My cured salmon salad.

As usual, Simon gave me the tomatoes from his dish, but it was really hard to move from my Asian dish to his more garlicky one, so I didn’t really eat much. He thought it was really good, though.

Simon's chicken Caesar salad.

Both were served with the world’s crispiest crisp bread. When I was eating it, it felt and sounded like I was chewing through concrete. It was strangely tasty, though.

I should add that Simon’s mom had what looked like the richest, fudgiest chocolate cake of all time, and she was very happy with it. For some reason, it disappeared before I managed to get a picture.

You can find Smith I in the Hansacompagniet shopping center, which is right by Gustav Adolfs Torg and just off the main pedestrian shopping street. Besides the salads above, they had sandwiches, warm dishes (like salmon and vegetables or beef and potatoes), plus a good assortment of delicious-looking cakes. Besides the typical coffee bar drinks, they also had a lot of specialty sodas, including a Blood Orange Pellegrino soda. Yum.

Here’s where it is: 

Visa större karta

Opening Hours

Monday-Friday: 10 am-7 pm

Saturday: 10 am-5 pm

Sundays: Noon-5 pm

Website (in Swedish)

Demonstrations in Malmö

Last Saturday was a big day for the Malmö police—so big, they had to call in reinforcements from Stockholm, Gothenburg, and the rest of the country’s riot police squads. Part of the reason was a rematch between two soccer teams: Malmö FF and Djurgården, a Stockholm team. The match was originally supposed to be a month or so ago, but it had to be called off only a few minutes into the game because people were throwing firecrackers onto the field. Not good.

The other reason was that the Sverigedemokraterna (Sweden Democrats, or SD for short) were holding a march in central Malmö. It’s a “nationalistic” (read: far right) party which, sadly, has a stronghold in southern Sweden, right where I live. You know Anders Breivik, the terrorist behind the attacks in Oslo and Utøya? If you understand where he’s coming from, you’ve already got a basic grip on the Sweden Democrats’ political platform. (One notable exception to this comparison: Breivik believes that many of the weaknesses of modern Western society are related to the advancement of women, while Sweden Democrats base some of their anti-Arab/anti-Muslim rhetoric on claims that they degrade women’s rights. )

In any case, the Sweden Democrats got more than 4% of the vote in the 2010 elections, which gave them a seat in Parliament and some political legitimacy. Their main goal is to greatly limit immigration policies, including the ones that this girl has benefited from (see The Skinny on the Sambo Visa, The Low Down on the Love Visa, etc.) because, you know, immigrants are bad. And dangerous. And very, very scary.

Saturday’s demonstration was, however, more notable for the protests of the Malmö inhabitants against the Sweden Democrats. There were far, far more people behind the barriers than there were marching within them, and their boos drowned out the Sweden Democrats’ chanting.

Demonstrations in Malmö: Gustav Adolfs Torg, protesters, and high-speed riot police caravans.

On one hand, I found the protests inspiring. Living in Lund, I knew that they were going on but had forgotten about them. I just happened to be walking by at the right time. I was glad to see people caring so much about their ideals (especially ideals I agree with) to protest a group they find hateful.

At the same time, the protests were kind of scary. There were explosions going off, and at one point, people were just running away from the square and then turning back. It felt like things could easily get out of hand and become chaos. I’ve never seen protests like this in my life. People waving signs and sleeping outside the White House, yes. People screaming and shouting and pushing and firecrackers going off? That I haven’t seen before.

I didn’t spend much time in the midst of the demonstrations, but I watched from above through the windows of a nearby building. I was with my boyfriend and his mom, who just broke her elbow and still has it in a cast and a sling, so we weren’t taking any chances that she would get pushed or shoved. It was a very interesting thing to see in what is normally a quite calm city.

One funny thing is that as we were driving out, I was saying that they should have outsourced the riot cops’ jobs to the Danish police. Simon and I watch a TV show that is basically like Danish cops, and let me tell you: Danish cops are way tougher than Swedish cops. About thirty seconds later, we drove by this van:

Politi!

Sure enough, it was a Danish police van of some sort! (Swedes say “Polis,” Danes say “Politi.”) Awesoooome.

For more pictures of the demonstration and the protests against it, check out the slideshow in Sydsvenskan. The text is in Swedish, but there are lots of good, big, high-quality pictures that’ll give you a better sense of what it looked like.

Floating Bridge – Malmö

Yesterday morning, when I went to work, there was a fully-constructed bridge suspended in the air from a crane. By the evening, it had moved to sort of a hovering position over the water. I really don’t know where it’s going or what it’s going to connect, but the canal looked spooky and beautiful.

Another long day of teaching today: first to Malmö, then Landskrona, then Malmö again, then home sweet home. Tomorrow is Växjö. I may or may not survive the week.

Must-eat in Malmö: Meze’s Lebanese Buffet

I like falafel and feta cheese as much as the next person, but this place takes it to the next level. Even better, the all-you-can-eat lunch buffet is only 76 crowns for an incredible spread of fresh grape leaves, tangy salads, warm pita bread, and more. Every time I go there, I end up eating so much that it hurts.

Oh, sweet deliciousness at Meze.

I mean, seriously. Stewed vegetables, fresh hummus, tabbouli, falafel, babaghanoush, parsley everywhere… if you’re in Malmö and looking for a delicious (and cheap!) lunch, this is the place to go. For dinner, they have a regular menu, which you can find on their home page (it’s in Swedish, but the Lebanese food names are the same). They also have a Friday night/Saturday lunch buffet for a little more money and a Sunday brunch.

Mmmm! It’s so good!

Opening Hours

Monday-Friday 11:15 am-9 pm; lunch buffet 11:15-2:30

Saturday-Sunday 11:30 am-9 pm 

Website www.falafelnr1.se (in Swedish only)

Find it here


Visa större karta

It’s less than a ten minutes walk away from either Gustav Adolfs Torg or the Central Station in the old-timey Gammal Väster neighborhood.

Andrea plays the … at the hobbit party.

Life in the real world is distracting me from life online. All I can offer you for the moment is this photo that I have—and love—of my friend Andrea at the hobbit party Steve threw earlier in the summer. My sister was there, some Swedish kickball/baseball variant was played, mead was drunk. We ate in the shadow of a giant windmill. And Andrea played this funny instrument far more competently than I would have ever imagined.

Our lovely Andrea, who has flown the Malmö coop for Barcelona.

In the meantime, please stay tuned for more. Have you checked out my latest two blog posts on the Expat Blog at Sweden.se? They’re visa related and hopefully helpfully for all of you in love with Swedes.

The Skinny on the Sambo Visa, Part 1

The Low Down on the Love Visa, Part 2

I really hope this is helpful to any of you who are reading this blog because you’re in love with a Swede and considering moving abroad for him/her. As always, you are more than welcome to ask questions in the comments or get in touch with me directly via email (kate@transatlanticsketches.com) or my contact page.

Last but not least in terms of exciting news… I have worn shorts for the last three days in a row! And it’s October! It’s an autumn miracle.

The Hug Square in Malmö Train Station

Malmö’s Central Train Station has been under construction since last year, and while a lot of progress has been made (City Tunnel, I love you), one terminal is still mostly out of service. It was while walking through this terminal on my way to the train home that I saw this “Kramkvadrat,” or “hug square,” painted on the concrete, a little worn away at the edges and covered with dust.

Standing all by myself in the hug square.

 

Catch up with the Expat Blog at Sweden.se!

There’s been a lot of action at the Expat Blog over the summer, and of course I don’t want you to miss a single minute. An entire summer’s worth of Sweden posts? In one place? Could your reading list get any more convenient? (No.)

A Preliminary Treatise on the Style of the Swedish Male The Swedish male, while obviously related to others of its type, looks very different than other nationalities’ specimens.

Top 5 Money-Saving Tips for Traveling in Sweden There’s no reason to go broke while traveling in Sweden.

Quick trip to THE MOTHERSHIP! In Stockholm and at the Swedish Institute!

Nostalgia, Hybridity, and the Zen of an American Brunch in Sweden American brunch gets Swedified with elderflower mimosas, lingonberry pancakes, and much, much more.

ALL THE INSIDER BABY GOSSIP: What the English-speaking media doesn’t know and isn’t telling you OMG Victoria is having a baby!! Get all the dirty gossip.

5 Simple Steps to Start Speaking a Foreign Language Now Five easy steps to help you get started speaking a foreign language now. Based on my experience learning Spanish, Italian, German, and Swedish as well as my work as an English teacher.

Cope with Summer Rain Like a Swede “Close your eyes and think of the empire.” No wait, I think that was for something else.

Brief Update from Southern Sweden A canal boat! Old timey folk songs! Europe!

1 Year in Sweden, 30 Swedish Experiences… and 30 more to work on What a year. Feeling better than ever and looking forward to more. Bring on the Swedish experiences!

The Great “Sweden is Socialist” Hoax Let’s talk dirty… real dirty. About toilets in Sweden and how they’re not free and how this is substantive proof that Sweden is not socialist. 

Oh, Snap(s)! It’s Midsummer Midsummer is here, and we made our own snaps! So bootleg, right?

Happy Midsummer! Twas the night before Midsummer and all through the house…

5 Steps to Making Your Own Midsummer’s Head Wreath Five simple steps to help you be the Swedish fairy/princess/queen of Midsummer that you always wanted to be.

THE COUNTDOWN IS ON! Pre-Midsummer anticipation! Plus, an insider look on what really goes on in Sweden during Midsummer.

When eating flowers out of the garden is not just for unruly kids How to make elderflower cordial/concentrate and the joys of being one with nature in Sweden.

 

Malmö Festival is here!

Malmö Festival is here!! Free concerts, food stalls, art exhibitions, demonstrations… general excitement all over. Here are a few pictures I took on Sunday night on my way to the Veronica Maggio concert!

A street artist working by spotlight

Carousel at the Malmö Festival.

"Throw your prejudices here."

Veronica Maggio, up close and personal

 

The Uncertain Tattoo Shop in Värnhem, Malmö

While Bryant was here visiting, we went to a Chilean-themed dinner party in Värnhem hosted by my friend Andrea, who is Chilean but raised in Sweden. She used to live in Barcelona and work as a candy maker, and she’s headed back soon… it’s great for here because she loves it there, but we’ll miss her here!

Anyway, while we were on our way, Bryant pointed out a tattoo shop that we were walking by that seemed less than confident in its abilities.

Skinlab Tattoo: Tattoo and Laser Removal

I suppose this makes sense as a business concept if you believe that someone can bond enough with their tattooer or the receptionist enough to come back for laser removal after their affection for the actual tattoo has died.

Otherwise, this just seems like bad marketing.

ICA Maxi: The Walmart solution to all of your European problems

If you live in Sweden and you’re like, Yeah, well, life here is great and all, but what I really need is a Walmart, look no farther than your closest ICA Maxi. Yes, it sounds like a type of feminine product, but I can assure you that it is not.

Instead, it’s a giant warehouse-style compendium of actually quite fresh produce, prepared foods, bulk and frozen foods, home products, gardening tools, and the required assortment of random seasonal stuff. Plus the Sam’s Club-style eatery, which we’ll call a cafe only because I found a blog post titled “The Greatness of the Sam’s Club Cafe” (by, appropriately enough, a blog called “Dude Foods“… love it). The author of that blog and I should probably be best friends on the basis of the following paragraph alone:

Another plus when it comes to eating lunch at Sam’s Club is that they usually have free samples each day, so when you’re done with your lunch you can walk around the grocery area with your giant soda and eat even more food! I love it when I finish a couple pieces of pizza and then walk around only to find out that they’re also giving out free samples of pizza. That’s bonus pizza!

Ahh, free samples. I miss you, America. Anyway, if you like hot dogs and soft serve ice cream… you’ll love ICA Maxi’s cafe.

Back to the point. Love the ICA Maxi. Next time you need to buy lingonberry preserves or planting soil in bulk, you know where to go. In Malmö, it’s right on the way to Västra Hamnen. You can get off at the bus stops at Turning Torso, Kockums Fritid, or Propellergatan (the absolute closest, in case you’re super lazy or perchance the weather is terrible, which is fairly likely).

The last time I was there was with my friend Bryant, an American friend who worked in London during the summer. We were en route to Turning Torso in Västra Hamnen, and we needed some sustenance for the road. (At least, I need some sustenance. FEED ME.)

Fortunately, ICA Maxi was there to help.

Notice at the top how it says "Bra för humöret." That means "good for your spirits" or "will put you in a good mood" or something like that. Eat candy... it's good for you!!! (Spiritually speaking.)

I’ve written before that Swedes love their candy, and this is just one part of the candy section in ICA Maxi. There are several rows of chocolate and pre-packaged candy in the rows right behind Bryant. There was also a wall about half this size of dried fruits and nuts in the produce section, all equipped with the same tiny little shovels. Oh Sweden, how I love your candy.

A shark raft!! Oh yeahhhhhhh! Just what we need for the pool.

Look at all the stuff behind me!! And the size of the of the charcoal bags at left (to my right)! And the magnificence of the shark raft!!! 2 awesome 4 wordz, dood!!

So there you have it. ICA Maxi: the European Walmart you’ve been looking for.

rain and cold
are not conducive to fun.